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Posted by pbc_admin
on September 01, 2011

LAS VEGAS FASHION TRADE SHOW ROUND-UP AUGUST 2011, DAY 1 – WORKROOM, PROJECT & POOLTRADESHOW

Wow! It was a hot one in Las Vegas last week for the August round of fashion trade shows. The good news from the plethora of shows was the almost unanimous feedback from exhibitors that the numbers this year was at least as good as last year with some reporting better sales.

Phew! It would have been a disaster for all concerned if the arrows started pointing down again – which they could have quite easily done given the doom and gloom prophesies of a double-dip recession that are doing the rounds, and the current stock market swings.

The August round of Vegas shows showcase Spring/Summer of the following year. Let’s hope the buyer optimism reflects the long awaited turnaround in the industry through the first two quarters of 2012. One sales representative told me she thinks that people have decided they are sick of the hard times, and have started buying again. This is the best business news I have heard for a long time because recessions usually end when the people decide they have.

I started the week at the MAGIC shows at the Mandalay Bay. I was most interested in Workroom, Project, and PoolTradeShow.

Workroom

Workroom is the fashion forward section of the entire MAGIC Marketplace. The clothing, accessories and shoe brands are carefully selected, juried, and well worth a close look.

The space has the look and feel of a working collective. At some booths, designers work at sewing machines in front of their collections, ready to engage as required. The almost 100 brands that were represented impressed with their handmade quality and diversity of textures with design ranging from thoughtful to inspired.

Visually, I wasn’t as blown away by Workroom this time as I was in February. In fairness, the February show is showcasing Fall/Winter, which gives the designers more scope for fabric choices, layering and therefore design opportunities.

There was plenty of color, though more muted than the most of the other ready-to-wear that I saw for the rest of the week. As well as the red, pink, and yellow that were everywhere, the Workroom designers had plenty of black, dark grey, and Hunter green on offer.

The 80’s western look was well represented as it was elsewhere.

The Jonathon Simkhai collection particularly impressed me. Several pieces accented with bright color panels and trims are inspired by sports uniforms – they would look fantastic on any dance floor. A flecked section of the collection is inspired by school composition book covers. His use of distressed edging is finished perfectly.

It was fantastic to see Australian collections in Workroom. The Sydny Showroom specializes in Australian collections. They were showing bless’ed are the meek (“doing well” according to Elizabeth Lewis, one of the principals of Sydny) and Flannel – two collections that I saw at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week in Sydney in May. Elizabeth also works with Ladakh, an Australian collection that seemed to be doing very good business in Project.

Another Aussie collection on show was ksubi.

I have to mention one piece that caught my attention every time I passed the booth. It was a khaki and olive two-tone safari jacket by Publish. I have never worn a safari jacket but I might just wear that one.

Project

Project seemed huge this time. There was plenty of foot traffic from the first morning. Project is where you’ll find the most influential and commercially successful  contemporary brands in the marketplace.

The feedback from the show varied between “about the same as last year” to “it was awesome”.

I saw a lot of color that was paradoxically either almost neon or muted and tonal – red, pink, fuchsia, yellow were the most dominant. As usual, there were lots of prints.  Printed pants and skirts were prominent.

Pants are big for Spring/Summer. The maxi-skirt is still popular.

Styles had cleaner lines than in the past – the bodies are more fitted and constructed than the flowing, draping look of past seasons.

Tanks of all types were huge. I saw a lot of straw, wide-brimmed hats, which have carried over from last year.

Shoes are also very important. “It’s all about the shoes”, is how one friend in the business put it. Shoes are structural and architectural; the bigger, the better. Get your platforms out!

PoolTradeShow

I called it!

In my blog, The Madness that is the MAGIC Fashion Trade Shows – Day 2 & Show Review, from February, I said that I would prefer to see the Project, Workroom and Pool connected to make sure the young Pool designers are not missed. That is how it was configured this time, and it made all the difference. It was easy for the contemporary buyers to just keep on walking through, rather than skipping it if they were crunched for time. (They had Pool stuck away in it’s own function room last time – the foot traffic stunk! A friend of mine who did it was very disappointed.)

Pool was fun as usual. Lots of emerging contemporary designers showing the full range of clothing, shoes, bags, hats, jewelry, accessories of all kinds. There is also a cash and carry section.

The whole section is bright and colorful. They have drink, food and candy giveaways each day. Over caffeinated (or something) hipsters goofing off in the aisles helped give it a carnival feel at times.

Now that Pool is connected to the main Project floor, I would definitely consider putting out the cash to exhibit here.

Day 1 lasted well into the night at the PoolTradeShow Opening Party at The House of Blues at the Mandalay Bay. DJ Harvey had us grooving into the wee small hours.

Keep an eye out for my Day 2 wrap …

Paul Brindley

www.paulbrindleyconsults.com

 

Posted by pbc_admin
on July 28, 2011

AUSTRALIAN FASHION RETAILERS & WHOLESALERS FACE THE SAME PROBLEMS AS U.S.

I’m just back from my second visit to my hometown of Fremantle in Western Australia in the past year. I still have trouble believing just how much the cost of living in the Perth metropolitan area has skyrocketed since I left there in early 1995. I realize that more than 16 years is plenty of time for things to change. However, the ensuing boom in the mining and resources sectors has pumped the state so full of jobs and cash that prices for everything (except wine, thankfully) are such that I’m not sure how people make ends meet but they seem to be happily throwing down. It has the feeling of a boomtown.

So when I heard about how retail was struggling when I was there for last Christmas, it just didn’t square. Having lived through the US downturn over the past 3 years, it looked fine to me. I was back in Sydney for the Rosemount Australian Fashion Week in May. Again, I heard the grumblings about what a mess that retail was in. I spent plenty of time roaming the streets of downtown Sydney and scouting stores in trendy inner-city suburbs like Surry Hills and Paddington; I didn’t see the signs of distress that usually comes with retail slumps – few empty storefronts and the whole place wasn’t on sale.

This most recent trip opened my eyes. Where disposable income in the States has dwindled because nobody has any money, it looks like disposable income in Australia is dwindling because there is too much cash flying around. Too much cash in an economy equals higher interest rates and higher prices. People are pocketing their money. This is always bad news for retail in general, and disastrous for fashion retail in particular. As I detailed in my blog, Where to from here?, disposable income is the lifeblood of the fashion retail world.

Serendipitously, the Sydney Morning Herald (SMH) article, Premier retail empire finds spending is out of fashion, appeared online just as I was starting this blog. It neatly outlines the troubles Down Under. It made me think of some interesting insights that I picked up from fashion retailers and savvy shoppers whom I spoke to over the past month.

In Where to from here?, I talked about the Santee Alley effect. This refers to fashion buyers going off the beaten track in Los Angeles to cut-price suppliers in search for better margins. Apparently, Hong Kong is the place to go for Australian contemporary buyers. It doesn’t sound like a pleasant experience to visit those dodgy back alleys; the description of the amenities used by the buyers was particularly memorable. But the results are the same – size runs of contemporary styles to be sold at fat margins.

Technology now allows buyers to see samples being shown or modeled live from anywhere around the world via Skype. Orders and reorders can be emailed or completely automated using websites like www.notjustalookbook.com. Buyers are no longer restricted by when and where they can meet sales agents. You can get your price point wherever you can find it.

Store cash flows have taken a huge hit over the past few years. Instead of money in the bank and all bills paid, the comments I heard about the amount of unpaid-for stock that was on the store floors and already on sale were scary. As one boutique owner put it, “The Good Old Days are definitely over.”

Those Good Old Days also didn’t have to compete with so much online spending. The SMH article goes into the exponential growth of Internet shopping. A very good male friend of mine who has always been a natural clotheshorse revels in buying leather jackets, cowboy shirts and Levi’s from the US and Canada with his strong Aussie dollar at a fraction of Australian retail prices. And he’s 52 – hardly the usual demographic.

The increasing dominance of online shopping has led traditional retailers to adopt new tactics to keep up. In Australia, they have started charging try-on and fitting room fees. Another SMH article, High street hits back, goes into the phenomenon. It costs you $50 to try on that pair of Nikes or that pair of designer jeans that you know you can get for half the price online.

I suspect the difficulties in the fashion wholesale and retail sectors in Australia and the US are rooted in the same causes. Apart from the economic problems, I think the way that business is done in the fashion world is changing. The industry has done business the same way for a very long time. It was slow to pick up the technological advances of the digital revolution, and slow to appreciate and react to the effect of the new technologies on how fashion can be sold other than to a customer in a store or to a buyer from an agent.

My question, Where to from here?, still needs an answer.

Posted by pbc_admin
on June 15, 2011

ROSEMOUNT AUSTRALIAN FASHION WEEK, MAY 2-6, 2011 – BACK TO THE FUTURE

It’s now been a month since my very hectic and productive week at the Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW) in Sydney. With so much press coverage of the show, I thought I’d let some time pass before reviewing the week to miss the initial media flurry, and allow the experience to percolate.

With designers and agents in town for LA Fashion Market Week this week, it’s a perfect time to talk about fashion shows. This LA Market Week is showing the Fall 2/Holiday collections. The US designers will be debuting their Spring 2012 collections at MAGIC in August. RAFW showcased the Australia Spring/Summer 2011/12 collections. It will be interesting to see how the US designers interpret the Spring/Summer trends compared to Australia counterparts.

This was my first RAFW so I obviously have nothing to compare the week to. Though some of the reviews have been critical, such as the scathing article “The weak that was” by Damien Woolnough, the Fashion Editor of the Australian newspaper on May 10 and his reluctant review of the week “The Top Five”, I found the show a real eye opener.

I hadn’t work in fashion before I left Australia over 16 years ago. All my knowledge and experience has been in the United States. So the size of the show was immediately noticeable – it was tiny compared to The Coterie show in New York or the massive MAGIC shows in Las Vegas. I know what you’re thinking; but it took a little time to sink in that there weren’t buildings and buildings of other collections to view. I enjoyed the intimacy of the event.

The setting of the show would have to rank as one of the most spectacular in the world – the Overseas Passenger Terminal (OPT) – at Sydney’s fabulous Circular Quay. If you have never been to Circular Quay, it is one of the most spectacular big city vistas in the world. With the Sydney CBD buildings at your back, the Sydney Harbor Bridge on your left, the Sydney Opera House on your right, and the unparalleled Sydney Harbor lapping at the quay, you are in the heart of the historic Sydney Cove which many people the world over think is the best city in the world. The OPT is a short walk up the quay towards the Bridge.

You can see the lights of the OPT on the left in this photo from Circular Quay:

 

 

 

 

The OPT hosted the main runway on the 2nd floor (the adjacent Cargo Theatre also held runway shows), the media center, designer’s booths branded as The Gallery, and the Rosemount VIP Wine Bar on the 2rd floor of the OPT directly across the cove from the Opera House which was the hub of networking, people-watching, and imbibing of Rosemount’s finest.

About a 15 minute walk up Pitt St. into the heart of the CBD is the Westin Sydney Hotel which hosted the Presentation Suites – 25 designers in their own rooms doing appointments with buyers, sales agents, PR firms, and me. There were also “off-site” runway shows that opened each day’s festivities dotted around Sydney. My off-site highlight was the Toni Maticevski show at the cool Carriageworks space in Eveleigh.

In total there were 57 runway shows over 5 days that showcased 85 designers.

Although not everyone agrees on the best of the best, here are the consensus picks:

Lisa Howww.lisaho.com

Toni Maticevskiwww.tonimaticevski.com

Loverwww.loverthelabel.com

Therese Rawsthornewww.thereserawsthorne.com

Dion Leewww.dionlee.com

Rachel Gilbertwww.rachelgilbert.com

I liked some of the young inspired designers:

Subfusco www.subfusco.com

None the Richer www.nonthericher.com.au

All of the Nicholas Huxley-mentored TAFE NSW Fashion Design Studio collections were fantastic. But particularly the amazingly creative Charlotte O’Carriganwww.charlotteocarrigan.com.au – pictured here celebrating her show at RAFW.

The incredibly talented and charming Teena Zerefos’ collection, Del Playa Drivewww.delplayadrive.com.au

Despite some of the naysayers taking pot shots from the gallery, it is obvious that the talent, inspiration and vibrancy of Australian fashion are alive and well. If designers are playing it safe right now, it is more about being commercially sensitive during economic uncertainty rather than a lack of imagination or skill.

RAFW was an amazing experience. I saw some incredible design work, met some fascinating people, and spent time in a great city. I am already looking forward to next year.

For those of you who want more on this year’s RAFW, try the RAFW website and some of the fashion editors that I met during the week:

Paul Brindley

paul brindley consults

 

Related Blogs

PAUL BRINDLEY CONSULTS LIVE FROM ROSEMOUNT AUSTRALIAN FASHION WEEK – MAY 2ND – 6TH, 2011

ROSEMOUNT AUSTRALIAN FASHION WEEK SPRING SUMMER 2011/12 – DAY 1

Posted by pbc_admin
on May 19, 2011

The End Is Nigh — For Computers, at Least

Mashable tells us that in ten or twenty years, what we now call “computers” and how we do our computing are both guaranteed to be radically different and almost unrecognizable – like DNA or nano- computers – http://mashable.com/2011/05/11/end-of-computers/

Posted by pbc_admin
on May 18, 2011

Is Social Media a Waste of Time and Money for B2B? – Glenn Gow says No

Glenn Gow is CEO of Crimson Consulting Group, a strategic marketing consultancy focused on B2B clients, with a focus on technology marketing.

In this article, Glenn addresses:

  • Legitimate concerns B2Bs have about investing in social media campaigns
  • Why B2B can’t afford to stay out of social media

Janet, a senior executive at one of our B2B clients, recently said to me, “Social media just doesn’t feel like an important area of investment for us. We’re not selling to consumers, we’re selling to hardcore businesspeople. I think we’d be wasting our time and money.”

I couldn’t blame her for being skeptical. Though no one can deny the explosive popularity of social media, some hard-core justifications for its B2B use have yet to be laid out.

Businesses of all sizes are executing Twitter campaigns, creating Facebook business pages, and producing corporate blogs and YouTube videos they hope will “go viral.” Those things can work when targeting consumers, but do they work when targeting other businesses?

The jury’s still out, but B2B companies are nonetheless rushing to jump on the social media bandwagon for fear of being left behind in an environment full of constant paradigm shifts that occur at lightning speed.

But the concerns Janet expressed are real. Here’s why:

  • “Show me the metrics!” Unless you have a windfall success story, like Avaya’s quarter-million-dollar deal, which came in large part thanks to Twitter, there aren’t a lot of solid B2B examples to site yet, particularly when compared to the plethora of B2C successes.
  • “Show me the money!” Executives understandably want to see solid links between investments in marketing programs and real revenue. Tracking makes it easy to see the number of friends, followers, connections, and comments one is getting, but how does that translate to the bottom line? Does a popular blog result in any measurable dollars? Maybe not. Finding these links can be a nebulous, if not, impossible venture. For some, that’s a deal breaker.
  • “Show me the point!” Janet commented on wasting time. Social media takes time, and lots of it. It’s no small task in time or expense to establish a professional presence in social media. It’s also not something you should start and stop. It’s a commitment to an effort that may not bring much ROI for quite a while. But half-hearted attempts don’t impress and can actually do harm. So if you’re not up for the long swim, don’t dip your toe in the water.

So why are B2Bs increasing their investments?

If the above sounds pretty dismal, why are 86% of B2B companies investing in some form of social media, compared to only 82% of B2Cs? For starters, consider that social media isn’t the first time a technology, initially targeted for personal use, has transformed into a major business tool. Think instant messaging, smartphones, and smartphone apps, which were originally designed for personal use and fun and were frowned upon by the business world. It’s hard not to see a similar trend with social media.

I shared the following four thoughts with Janet.

1. Consider integration vs. ad hoc postings

Janet’s company may already have a social presence, whether or not she knows it or likes it. Many employees regularly create haphazard, ad hoc postings about their company… not only on LinkedIn but also on Facebook, blogs, Twitter, and YouTube. Such uncontrolled, disparate postings can be a disadvantage; they might work at cross purposes both to each other and to an integrated marketing plan. It’s far better to own your social media presence so that it’s a cohesive whole.

2. Janet’s B2B audience is there

Even though Janet’s target is businesspeople, not consumers, professional buyers now consult social media sources during the buying process and before making a decision. Recent studies have found that up to 90% of B2B buyers use social media to research purchases and are heavily influenced by third-party feedback in their purchasing decisions—both to identify solutions and to limit risk.

The directive to “be where your audience is” has never been more relevant or more possible than in today’s integrated Web, where marketers can know precisely who and where their audience is. “Being there” has also gone beyond a direct dollars-and-cents relationship: A presence in social media has simply come to be expected.

Businesses that aren’t present on social media are creating a negative perception of themselves as being behind the times or unavailable to their clientele.

3. The multiplier effect is hard to argue with

Best-practices already exist for using social media as part of an integrated marketing plan. No marketing element—whether tradeshow, ad campaign, or thought-leadership webinar—should be used in a vacuum: Integration and expansion are the keys for achieving marketing impact.

When used as a follow-on tool for another campaign, social media channels provide an excellent venue for broadening the impact of other marketing strategies and investments. And though not everything goes viral the way we might like, you can dramatically increase your reach with a Tweet here and a Facebook posting there.

4. Don’t get trumped by your competition

Rising success stories (check out how an EMC campaign used nearly every promotional channel) are validating the concern that B2B social media skeptics—and their businesses—will be left gasping in their competitor’s exhaust.

The hard reality is that ROI metrics are imprecise, and it’s always been difficult for Marketing to link its efforts directly with revenue. Perhaps the question is, why should B2B social media be any different? (See this slideshare/webinar on generating ROI from social media.)

Though social media may still be an unproven channel that delivers results difficult to quantify, it’s moving forward so quickly that there’s real risk in staying out of the game. Yes, there is risk involved in allocating money to a B2B social media campaign… but as marketers, we’re used to risk, and there is even greater risk in not doing so.

***

I confirmed with Janet that, for her, there is indeed a leap of faith involved in B2B social media. But the question today is not whether you can afford to implement a B2B social media presence into your marketing campaigns—it’s whether you can afford not to.

Posted by pbc_admin
on May 14, 2011

Get Real-Time Fashion Advice Before You Go Out – article on Mashable

Name: Go Try It On

Quick Pitch: Crowdsourced advice on your look, before you go out.

Genius Idea: Go Try It On is a website and iPhone app [iTunes link] that enables users to get real-time feedback on their outfits before they make a purchase or leave their bedrooms.

The site, which launched in March 2010, attracts 80,000 unique visitors per month, 30% of which are from outside the U.S. More than 250,000 have downloaded the iPhone app, about half of which are active users, founder and CEO Marissa Evans claims.

Both the website and app have a sleek, easy-to-use interface. Users can upload photos from their desktops or iPhones, or snap one on the spot with a webcam, and ask the community (or, if they prefer, a private set of friends) to approve a particular look or help them choose the best of three options.

The site’s most active users tend to be young women in their teens and early twenties; 20% of registered users are men, Evans, a graduate of Harvard Business School, says.

If Go Try It On sounds a lot like another startup we’ve covered, you’re not alone. When asked how the startup differed from Fashism, Evans said that Go Try It On was making a greater investment in data and analytics.

Soon, Go Try It On will begin displaying that data in a way that is useful to members. The site will notify a user if she tends to get good feedback when she wears white skinny jeans, for instance, and send her product suggestions to further expand that look — a service that might prove useful both to the user and the startup, should it generate affiliate revenues from the suggestions it serves.

Evans also believes that users are “about 10 times more engaged.” While I wouldn’t place any bets on that number, I will say that the community is certainly very active. Within an hour of uploading a photo on a Friday afternoon, I received 23 votes and 2 comments on my look. The feedback wasn’t particularly insightful, but it did up my confidence about a recent dress purchase.

Go Try It On currently has a full-time staff of five, including the three founders. The startup raised a seed round of funding last fall from Index Ventures.

Posted by pbc_admin
on May 02, 2011

ROSEMOUNT AUSTRALIAN FASHION WEEK SPRING SUMMER 2011/12 – DAY 1

You couldn’t ask for a more beautiful setting for a fashion show than right on Circular Quay next to the Sydney Harbour Bridge, and across from the Sydney Opera House. That’s where we were yesterday for the opening of 2011 Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW) at the Overseas Passenger Terminal (OPT) at Sydney Cove.

Looking up at the old red brick and limestone buildings across the street from the OPT, it was easy to look back and imagine how it was 200 years ago.  However, today was all about looking forward as the latest Australian fashions for Spring Summer 2011/12 were debuted to enthusiastic audiences that had come from all over the world.

Bec & Bridge opened the week at the OPT with a beautiful, creative, very wearable collection that included floral prints,  burnt oranges, leather/suede mixes, silks, and very sexy black mesh cut-out dresses and skirt. Short shorts are definitely in for Spring Summer – www.becandbridge.com.au

Other favorites of the day were:

Arnsdorf

Morrison

Flowers For A Vagabond

Subfusco

Uscari

The fashion forward Ready to Wear 1 show was incredible. New designers with vision and courage giving the audience thrills with audacious designs and use of fabric and color. Check them out at: rafw.com.au/australia/shows/group-collections-show

Off to start Day 2 … can’t wait!